To-ing and Fro-ing – Jalie 3130 and McCall’s M6044

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Friends, I’ve been on the hunt for shirt patterns for Miss22 and when I came across the Jalie shirt I confess I clicked the ‘buy’ button immediately…along with a vintage reproduction 1940s dress pattern that I know will look spectacular on Miss25. But first things first. I wanted a shirt pattern that had masculine attributes and feminine shape. Miss22 likes her shirts to be fitted and have a collar and collar stand. When this Jalie pattern arrived I thought I had ticked all the boxes…but sadly it ain’t so.

Once I had made a first muslin I realised that this shirt is more of a blouse – it is constructed like a blouse in that it has set-in sleeves.  I combined a bigger bust/torso area with a smaller hip size which was fine. The sleeve cap had way too much ease so I reduced it without too much trouble, but the real trouble came when I tried to draft a conventional sleeve cuff. I tried to morph the  3/4 Jalie set-in blouse sleeve top with a mens shirt sleeve cuff; which is sewn onto the body and then sewn from side seam to cuff. To say it was a pain in the bum is being polite. So I thought about another option: sew a mans shirt but add bust darts and vertical darts to give some female shape!

Enter McCall’s M6044
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I had spoken to a forum sewist friend who had made this pattern up for both her partner and herself and I know her shape is shapely and feminine rather than androgynous so I thought that this might work for Miss22 if I add the necessary shape.

So, after getting the pattern yesterday, I have been busy making working copies of the necessary pattern pieces to make the pink version in the pic.
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Making the breast dart wasn’t difficult but I did find that I needed to true the pattern with both the back and front pattern pieces as it was rather out at the bottom even though I had slashed the pattern to lower the bottom right edge to account for the change.

Look Ma, I’ve got a boob!

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I still may need to add vertical darts, but I’m going to make a muslin next to see how it sits on Miss22 before I do any more pattern altering. If I can get away without making anymore alterations then I don’t intend to make unnecessary work for myself.

In other sewing news, I made two more pairs of pyjama pants for Miss22. As per her request I added pockets to the front – I didn’t bother to pattern match; I’m far too lazy for that! This is the 55mm wide Fold Over Elastic

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This blue elastic is a 3.5mm jacquard that I purchased online recently; it’s really nice to work with. I think it’s the remains of an order that the manufacturer had, but the website said that I could get my own branding if I wanted. I don’t know if they charge more for a personalised branding but since these are for family undies I wasn’t really motivated to inquire further. I imagine they wouldn’t offer the service for small domestic orders like mine.

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Well friends, that’s my sewing updates. I hope to have a muslin made up of the McCall’s shirt soon; this may end up being Sunday!

Happy Sewing.

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